And, again I have been asked to come up with, this time an article, on rather short notice. Ususally that wouldn't be an issue at all and in fact, as I'm back in Maiduguri mainly to sort out some administrative issues and can't really plan any other activities before I know my appointment dates, it should really be giving me something useful to do with my time here. But ... I don't know, usually writer's block is not a serious issue for me and I have written essays in shorter periods of time but now ... I actually wonder whether this is not rather stage fright then a writer's block. I mean, I can't even make up my mind which aspect of my field research to write about!!! So, yes, maybe its really the fact that this is not 'just' for my supervisor but will be printed and potentially read by lots and lots of people. - And before you mention it, no a blog is something else. Its not even meant to be academically sound in terms of content and language!!! ... ... ... Oh, and before I give the wrong impression again: there is a part of me that is really really happy to be back in Maiduguri, its just that in terms of my research I should have moved on to Kano by now!!! As a private person I'm happy to be back here and have some more time with some people I really care about.
Posts
Back in Maiduguri
I have just arrived back from two weeks travelling on the occasion of the exhibition of the works that have come out of the British Council workshop in Kano I attended before Christmas. The exhibition entitled ‘Celebrating the Traditional Crafts of Northern Nigeria’ was held at Terra Kulture, a culture centre with restaurant and exhibition space on Victoria Island, Lagos. For the moment, just let me say how happy and grateful I am to be safely back in Maiduguri. I mean, I have done the nine to ten hour journey between Maiduguri and Abuja before and actually really enjoyed watching the landscape slowly getting less dry, lusher and more tropical the further south we get. The only thing I ever seriously worried – other then the pain in my back and legs – was the speed with which these cars manoeuvre these streets full of bigger and smaller potholes. And, as a matter of fact when Nabil and has Lagos based friend urged me to take a flight from Abuja to Lagos and back rather then a bus because the road wasn’t safe I didn’t really take them serious. It was more to appease Nabil who even told me he’d rather give me the money for the flights and know I’m safe then having me take the bus that I finally took a plane (using my own money, of course). Irony, irony, it appears that the car I took from Abuja on my way back here only narrowly escaped some armed robbers on the supposedly safe road between Damaturu and Maiduguri. In fact, I learned a young girl was shot. And that only a few minutes drive after an army check point. Had we left the motor park half an hour earlier, had the driver known the road (he usually serves the Abuja-Sokoto road and had to be directed by the passengers) and, hence, driven faster … I don’t even want to think about it and I’m just immensely grateful to be safely back in Maiduguri! For the moment …
Signature Gallery, Abuja
On my way back from Lagos to Maidguri I had another stop-over in Abuja and I used the day there to meet up with Hussein Akar, the owner of Signature Gallery in Abuja. He wasn’t around when I first popped by on Thursday on the way from the airport to Ella’s place but I was able to make an appointment for the next day. I was a bit nervous about meeting him because, despite the recommendation to see him by his uncle at the Signature Gallery in Lagos and Nabil’s friends, I wasn’t really quite sure whether I had enough questions for him to justify disturbing him. However, it turned out to be a really useful and interesting discussion. In fact, he was kind enough to call one Zaria graduate during our conversation to pass on one of my questions and provided me with his number and that of somebody at the Society of Nigeria Artists before I left. At the same time, his emphasis on Zaria graduates, Lagos as an important place of residence for artists from different parts of the country and also the art market, his suggestion that it might be more fruitful to go via galleries and the Society of Nigerian artists then local art schools in the north itself left me a bit insecure about my own approach. But maybe, because I am anyway not really satisfied with how I conducted things here in Maiduguri, this is a good impulse to further review and change my approaches … But this is something I will have to discuss with my supervisor first.
Goethe Institute
In addition to commercial galleries there are obviously also the foreign cultural institutes in Lagos, most prominently the Goethe Institute, the British Council and Alliance Francaise.
The Goethe Institute was currently holding a very interesting exhibition of works by Ayo Aina, a graduate of ABU Zaria, and I had originally meant to attend the opening on Saturday evening. However, unfortunately this was the day Zico’s business partners decided to come down to Lagos and I had to evacuate the room in his apartment – and after the panic attacks involved in searching for a hotel room on such short notice and finally having arrived at my new place in Obalende area it was already over an hour late and I honestly really wasn’t in the mood to leave the room again. I still think that this was really bad timing and I lost a good chance to make some interesting contacts in the town but there will another chance another time. Anyway, I finally went to the Goethe Institute on Monday morning hoping to make an appointment for some other day. I ended up having a brief but informative conversation with the director right then. I have to confess that I was a bit surprised b this and otherwise would probably have asked one or the other additional question but on the whole I think I got most of the information I had come for. The occasion of my visit had been that the Goethe Institute organised a workshop for photographers in Kano some time last year. During my brief visit in June/July I had attended the opening of the exhibition of the works that had come out of this workshop at the History and Culture Bureau in Kano. Now I was interested in some more background information on the workshop as well as other activities of the Goethe Institute in the northern region.
In addition I had planned to visit the Alliance Francaise in Lagos but between the other places I attended I didn’t really find time to do so. I would really have been interested in the reasons that the branch in Maiduguri was apparently closed and to clarify whether the Kano outlet is still active or, as somebody has suggested to me, largely stopped its cultural activities. I guess I will now have to find out from the branches.
The Goethe Institute was currently holding a very interesting exhibition of works by Ayo Aina, a graduate of ABU Zaria, and I had originally meant to attend the opening on Saturday evening. However, unfortunately this was the day Zico’s business partners decided to come down to Lagos and I had to evacuate the room in his apartment – and after the panic attacks involved in searching for a hotel room on such short notice and finally having arrived at my new place in Obalende area it was already over an hour late and I honestly really wasn’t in the mood to leave the room again. I still think that this was really bad timing and I lost a good chance to make some interesting contacts in the town but there will another chance another time. Anyway, I finally went to the Goethe Institute on Monday morning hoping to make an appointment for some other day. I ended up having a brief but informative conversation with the director right then. I have to confess that I was a bit surprised b this and otherwise would probably have asked one or the other additional question but on the whole I think I got most of the information I had come for. The occasion of my visit had been that the Goethe Institute organised a workshop for photographers in Kano some time last year. During my brief visit in June/July I had attended the opening of the exhibition of the works that had come out of this workshop at the History and Culture Bureau in Kano. Now I was interested in some more background information on the workshop as well as other activities of the Goethe Institute in the northern region.
In addition I had planned to visit the Alliance Francaise in Lagos but between the other places I attended I didn’t really find time to do so. I would really have been interested in the reasons that the branch in Maiduguri was apparently closed and to clarify whether the Kano outlet is still active or, as somebody has suggested to me, largely stopped its cultural activities. I guess I will now have to find out from the branches.
Galleries
There must be quite a number o galleries in Lagos and I have certainly not visited all of them. However, I managed to have a look at some of them in the mornings before going to the National Gallery or in the afternoon after having finished there for the day. The first gallery I visited, apart from Terra Kulture where the works of the Kano workshop were exhibited, was Nimbus, a rather small space attached to a guest house in Ikoyi, just off Awolowo Road. I didn’t’ find any works by artists from the northern regions of Nigeria there but a good collection of back issues of New Culture Magazine as well as Nigeria Magazine which were on sell for 500 Naira (£ 2). Also on Awolowo Road are Signature Gallery and Quintessence, and, in fact, with the owner of the former I had a brief but quite interesting discussion about the current generation of artists in Zaria and why he thinks their works do not perform well at the art market. He also strongly recommended I speak to the owner of the Signature Gallery in Abuja in more detail. The biggest surprise was the Centre for Contemporary Arts, which is a new outfit based in Yaba. In contrast to the other places this one has been conceived more as a cultural centre with particular focus on contemporary arts. It has an exhibition space and a surprisingly extensive library. In addition the owner, Bisi Silva, also organises talks and presentations on the arts. In fact, she invited me to come back towards the end of my year in Nigeria and give a presentation, something along the lines of research notes. Well, I don’t mind having an excuse to come back and explore Lagos a bit further – although, compared to Maiduguri and even Abuja this town is a money eating monster and I will have to have a serious look at my finances before I make that decision.
National Gallery of Arts
In Maiduguri the keeper of the local branch of the National Gallery of Arts (NGA), Mr. Edore, had suggested I check out the archives and storage of the NGA in Lagos. He also explained that I would need to obtain clearance from the Head Office, if possible the Director General, in Abuja. Hence, before I went to Abuja I contacted their public relations officer and finally met with her the day after I arrived. She was very kind and helpful and introduced me to the Head of Curatorial Practices. He in turn wrote me a letter of introduction for the keeper in Lagos.
Once in Lagos, I went to the National Gallery. I was taken around the exhibition – which unfortunately only displays a limited number of works at the moment as the second exhibition floor is currently being renovated – and allowed access to the library, the storage of works and their files about works and the artists represented in their collection. Especially, the latter proved to be an interesting source about some of the better established artists from Zaria for which their contained extensive CVs. So much that I ended up spending almost three days making use of their facilities.
Once in Lagos, I went to the National Gallery. I was taken around the exhibition – which unfortunately only displays a limited number of works at the moment as the second exhibition floor is currently being renovated – and allowed access to the library, the storage of works and their files about works and the artists represented in their collection. Especially, the latter proved to be an interesting source about some of the better established artists from Zaria for which their contained extensive CVs. So much that I ended up spending almost three days making use of their facilities.
Terra Kulture
Terra Kulture
The advantage of flying to Lagos was that, despite a delay of about an hour, I arrived in good time to check out the exhibition at Terra Kulture still the first day. Practically, the exhibition venue was only 2 minutes drive from the apartment and Zico’s driver, who knew the place, dropped me there and picked me up again an hour later. Terra Kulture, by the way, seems to be a really lovely venue. On the ground floor there is a restaurant and on the second floor a quite big exhibition space.
The exhibition was entitled ‘Celebrating the Traditional Crafts of Northern Nigeria’ and showcased works produced during but also independently of the British Council/Prince’s School of Traditional Arts Workshop. They were beautifully showcased and, good news for the participants, a good number had already been sold. Unfortunately I had missed the opening of the exhibition for which all the workshops’ participants as well as Fossua and David, the course facilitators, had come down to Lagos. By the time I arrived most of them had already travelled back. Only Sadiq had stayed behind to attend to the exhibition and its visitors as well as represent CADDAK, the craft organisation formed by the course members.
Sadiq suggested that the feedback for the exhibition was very positive, something a member of the gallery staff confirmed. In fact, many visitors – Nigerian as well as expat – were surprised that Northern Nigeria had such beautiful art and craft traditions. This probably harks back to the general assumption expressed to me by many people that the north does, supposedly, not have any viable art traditions – and by implication meaningful contemporary arts. In fact, however, this exhibition and the works presented seem to have allowed CADDAK to make contacts with the local Chamber of Commerce who offered to assist them financially to attend and present their works at trade fairs.
The advantage of flying to Lagos was that, despite a delay of about an hour, I arrived in good time to check out the exhibition at Terra Kulture still the first day. Practically, the exhibition venue was only 2 minutes drive from the apartment and Zico’s driver, who knew the place, dropped me there and picked me up again an hour later. Terra Kulture, by the way, seems to be a really lovely venue. On the ground floor there is a restaurant and on the second floor a quite big exhibition space.
The exhibition was entitled ‘Celebrating the Traditional Crafts of Northern Nigeria’ and showcased works produced during but also independently of the British Council/Prince’s School of Traditional Arts Workshop. They were beautifully showcased and, good news for the participants, a good number had already been sold. Unfortunately I had missed the opening of the exhibition for which all the workshops’ participants as well as Fossua and David, the course facilitators, had come down to Lagos. By the time I arrived most of them had already travelled back. Only Sadiq had stayed behind to attend to the exhibition and its visitors as well as represent CADDAK, the craft organisation formed by the course members.
Sadiq suggested that the feedback for the exhibition was very positive, something a member of the gallery staff confirmed. In fact, many visitors – Nigerian as well as expat – were surprised that Northern Nigeria had such beautiful art and craft traditions. This probably harks back to the general assumption expressed to me by many people that the north does, supposedly, not have any viable art traditions – and by implication meaningful contemporary arts. In fact, however, this exhibition and the works presented seem to have allowed CADDAK to make contacts with the local Chamber of Commerce who offered to assist them financially to attend and present their works at trade fairs.
Lagos
I’ve never been in Lagos before and had heard some not too encouraging stories about the dangers and pitfalls of this city. So, when one of Nabil’s best friends, Zico, offered to host me I was actually really grateful and relieved. Not only because this would save me quite a lot of money as accommodation in Lagos is really expensive but also because I offered that his driver could be me up at the airport – yes, airport. Both, Nabil and Zico strongly urged me to take a plane to Lagos rather then a bus as I had originally planned and with all that money for accommodation saved I had run out of arguments. So, I spend my first few days at Zico’s place at Victoria Island and, wow, what a change after four months without much power supply or running water!!! I mean, can you believe it: a proper shower with hot water! Well, and air condition, a well filled bar, a dart board in the lounge, a household help and a driver. Oh, and the guys were not only pretty nice and entertaining, they also took me out for dinner and a proper night out on Saturday! Only … I don’t know whether its my East German upbringing, all those socialist values coming through, or just that servants are not part of the lifestyle of anybody I know or … I don’t know, to me there is something weird about this kind of expat life style the guys introduced me to. I can’t really put my finger on it but … I mean, one of their friends actually told me that he’s in Nigeria for a few years now and has never taken suya (barbequed meat Nigerian style, delicious) and that’s not because he’s vegetarian or so! Don’t get me wrong, I thoroughly enjoyed getting some extremely nice Indian, Chinese and Tex-Mex food as a change from my usual diet of local dishes and the occasional Lebanese treat but … and also it was great to spend a whole night out chatting with the guys and dancing but having security escort you back to your car because it is not safe to go on your own kind of leaves a bitter after-taste. I mean, at the end of the day the insecurity of Lagos has a lot to do with the enormous gap between rich and poor in this country. I mean, this gap also exists in Maiduguri but somehow it appeared more clearly to me in Lagos – come on, a house help, a driver, security at the gate, air condition, outings which are paid for in 10.000s of Nairas on the one hand, piss poor beggars at the road side on the other hand, that just rubs it in. I don’t know, I don’t think I could live like that … and yes, I know that’s quite hypocritical in a way to say that because not only did I absolutely enjoy having European standards again for a few days (and chances are I will go back to them at the end of this year anyway) but even in Maiduguri I’m better off, enjoying a better life-style then many Nigerians and there I don’t really think about it …
Anyway, after a few nights, the guys got a short notice visit from some business partners and because the company pays for the apartment I had to quickly move out. Looking back that was actually quite funny, how Zico didn’t know how to tell me and ended up calling Nabil in Maiduguri to call me back in Lagos and break the news to me. And, how I then started to ring all the hotels in my guide book – and of course, the only one I actually got through didn’t have any room for the same day – and already saw myself sleeping under some bridge when Zico’s driver came to pick me up because I had to leave before my calls had achieved anything. In fact, they had already found a hotel for but neither Zico nor the driver had told me, so for two minutes I had a proper panic attack … anyway, the hotel turned out to be good value for money and was right back in Nigeria – I mean, streets bustling with traders and food stalls around it, bucket showers, cockroaches, air condition but the window doesn’t close anyway, suya, fried yam … what a change from Victoria Island and a pretty welcome one in a lot of regards. It took me a bit out of this bubble that expat life in Lagos appears to be to me. This is not to say that I’ve experienced anything close to the ‘real’ Lagos of most people based there – there were too many areas, especially at the mainland I didn’t go to, partly for lack of time (which I mainly spent at the National Gallery and about this more another time) and because I was told it would be pretty dangerous to go there on my own – even more so at night, to the extend that I was seriously told off for going out in the dark on my own to buy some dinner from a suya stall two corners away from my hotel, an area I was told was otherwise safe enough. But it certainly accorded me some independence and flexibility that I never feel I quite have if I’m staying with somebody else – and giving that there was a lot of things I felt I had to do in Lagos, a lot of places to go to – this was actually quite good.
Anyway, after a few nights, the guys got a short notice visit from some business partners and because the company pays for the apartment I had to quickly move out. Looking back that was actually quite funny, how Zico didn’t know how to tell me and ended up calling Nabil in Maiduguri to call me back in Lagos and break the news to me. And, how I then started to ring all the hotels in my guide book – and of course, the only one I actually got through didn’t have any room for the same day – and already saw myself sleeping under some bridge when Zico’s driver came to pick me up because I had to leave before my calls had achieved anything. In fact, they had already found a hotel for but neither Zico nor the driver had told me, so for two minutes I had a proper panic attack … anyway, the hotel turned out to be good value for money and was right back in Nigeria – I mean, streets bustling with traders and food stalls around it, bucket showers, cockroaches, air condition but the window doesn’t close anyway, suya, fried yam … what a change from Victoria Island and a pretty welcome one in a lot of regards. It took me a bit out of this bubble that expat life in Lagos appears to be to me. This is not to say that I’ve experienced anything close to the ‘real’ Lagos of most people based there – there were too many areas, especially at the mainland I didn’t go to, partly for lack of time (which I mainly spent at the National Gallery and about this more another time) and because I was told it would be pretty dangerous to go there on my own – even more so at night, to the extend that I was seriously told off for going out in the dark on my own to buy some dinner from a suya stall two corners away from my hotel, an area I was told was otherwise safe enough. But it certainly accorded me some independence and flexibility that I never feel I quite have if I’m staying with somebody else – and giving that there was a lot of things I felt I had to do in Lagos, a lot of places to go to – this was actually quite good.
Abuja
I’ve been in Abuja for a few days before but didn’t really enjoy it last, so apart from a chance to see Ella, a friend and recent graduate from the Department of Creative Arts here in Maiduguri, I wasn’t particularly looking forward to it. Even more so as I was hoping to attend the opening evening of the exhibition at Terra Kulture of the works that have come out of the British Council workshop in Kano I attended before Christmas. The exhibition entitled ‘Celebrating the Traditional Crafts of Northern Nigeria’ was held at Terra Kulture, a culture centre with restaurant and exhibition space on Victoria Island, Lagos. But couldn’t leave Maiduguri early because I was hoping to attend an event at the National Gallery of Art (NGA) branch here on 16 February and stopping over in Abuja made it impossible to reach Lagos in time. In the end I could have easily left earlier as the Saturday Art Club at the NGA didn’t take place, but that I only found out at the day itself. Anyway, I spent three nights in Abuja where I stayed with Ella and her family. And, while my primary objective had been to obtain a letter of clearance from the head quarters in order to use the archive and storage of the NGA in Lagos – being in Lagos anyway for the exhibition I can as well make the most of this say - Ella and I also visited some more art related places – in particular, the exhibition at the Arts and Culture complex and signature gallery. In addition Ella also tried to show me some of the places in Abuja she likes and/or thought would interest me. Unfortunately we didn’t have much time but still managed to get some lovely Italian style ice cream – the first proper ice cream I had since I’m in Nigeria –, go out one evening for snooker and some drinks, in effect the first time in months that I stayed out longer than my nine o’clock curfew here in Maiduguri, and visited some of her friends and family that are based in town … oh, and as they have a pretty reliable power supply where Ella stays in Abuja I also managed to watch most of the second serious of Ugly Betty, and if you’d seen how I was glued to that serious in London you’d know what that meant to me!!! So, yes, while I’m still not really a fan of Abuja this time I really enjoyed my stay – basically, thanks to Ella!
Lorry Painters in Maiduguri
Lorry Painters in Maiduguri
There are three main motor parks in Maiduguri and close to each of them there also appears a place where lorries are repaired and, assumingly, painted. And with painting lorries I don’t just mean spraying them in some colour but producing these wonderful designs that for me distinguish lorries and trucks here in Nigeria from those on German or English roads. [Just to give you an idea of how beautiful these trucks are check out some of my pictures: …] Generally the whole business of lorry painting is associated with Jos but since I am here I have seen trucks that appear to have been painted in numerous other places, in fact, every bigger centre of trade appears to have at least some lorry painters. This is at least the impression the signatures and contact details lorry painters practically often leave on their designs convey.
Anyway, it appears the there are no lorry painters at Tashin Kano, one of Maiduguri’s big motor parks. When we asked for them one evening last week workers there didn’t even really know what we were talking about – and my friend who accompanied is fluent in Hausa, so it wasn’t an issue of language. And, in fact, on Saturday an artist based close by confirmed to me that there actually are no lorry painters based there.
However, after that frustrated evening trying to find them at Tashin Kano I discovered a lot of those beautifully decorated trucks in a side street of West End Roundabout in an area where a lot of traders appear to be based. I took quite a few snaps, most importantly I came across one design that appeared to be executed in Maiduguri. Next day I returned with a printout of this particular motif and started asking around whether anybody knew the guys. And, luck being on my side, the guy who owned the truck pop up, took me down to Tashin Baga and helped me find two lorry painters. Another one was introduced to me on Friday when I was asking for one of them and nobody could locate him. And, finally, I also came across the one who did the body work of the motif I had printed out and turns out he’s in his seventies and must have been in the business for decades. Problem is I will need a translator to speak to him and I’m running out of time.
Anyway, I managed to talk to three of them … or rather I had a proper interview with one of them, the two others … well, basically I spend the morning being dragged around by them and shown off to different local officials and the afternoon to get them talk to me and commission some works while they spent the money I gave them to by (non-alcoholic) drinks on getting drunk around me. Anyway, while it’s not been a particularly pleasant and efficient afternoon I think I still managed to get some relevant information out of them and to commission them to each execute one of their designs on canvas for me. Today I was able to already collect two of them, another one – inshallah or by God’s grace – on Wednesday.
The interesting thing is that only one of the three lorry painters is originally from Maiduguri, and by this I mean that he was born and brought up in the town. In fact, it appears that he is a graduate of the Creative Arts Department at the University of Maiduguri. The other two did not only grow up outside the town and state but also had there training there – one in Kano and the other one in Jos. So, there might be some interesting links between the different places, maybe it might even be possible to come up with some kind of family tree.
There are three main motor parks in Maiduguri and close to each of them there also appears a place where lorries are repaired and, assumingly, painted. And with painting lorries I don’t just mean spraying them in some colour but producing these wonderful designs that for me distinguish lorries and trucks here in Nigeria from those on German or English roads. [Just to give you an idea of how beautiful these trucks are check out some of my pictures: …] Generally the whole business of lorry painting is associated with Jos but since I am here I have seen trucks that appear to have been painted in numerous other places, in fact, every bigger centre of trade appears to have at least some lorry painters. This is at least the impression the signatures and contact details lorry painters practically often leave on their designs convey.
Anyway, it appears the there are no lorry painters at Tashin Kano, one of Maiduguri’s big motor parks. When we asked for them one evening last week workers there didn’t even really know what we were talking about – and my friend who accompanied is fluent in Hausa, so it wasn’t an issue of language. And, in fact, on Saturday an artist based close by confirmed to me that there actually are no lorry painters based there.
However, after that frustrated evening trying to find them at Tashin Kano I discovered a lot of those beautifully decorated trucks in a side street of West End Roundabout in an area where a lot of traders appear to be based. I took quite a few snaps, most importantly I came across one design that appeared to be executed in Maiduguri. Next day I returned with a printout of this particular motif and started asking around whether anybody knew the guys. And, luck being on my side, the guy who owned the truck pop up, took me down to Tashin Baga and helped me find two lorry painters. Another one was introduced to me on Friday when I was asking for one of them and nobody could locate him. And, finally, I also came across the one who did the body work of the motif I had printed out and turns out he’s in his seventies and must have been in the business for decades. Problem is I will need a translator to speak to him and I’m running out of time.
Anyway, I managed to talk to three of them … or rather I had a proper interview with one of them, the two others … well, basically I spend the morning being dragged around by them and shown off to different local officials and the afternoon to get them talk to me and commission some works while they spent the money I gave them to by (non-alcoholic) drinks on getting drunk around me. Anyway, while it’s not been a particularly pleasant and efficient afternoon I think I still managed to get some relevant information out of them and to commission them to each execute one of their designs on canvas for me. Today I was able to already collect two of them, another one – inshallah or by God’s grace – on Wednesday.
The interesting thing is that only one of the three lorry painters is originally from Maiduguri, and by this I mean that he was born and brought up in the town. In fact, it appears that he is a graduate of the Creative Arts Department at the University of Maiduguri. The other two did not only grow up outside the town and state but also had there training there – one in Kano and the other one in Jos. So, there might be some interesting links between the different places, maybe it might even be possible to come up with some kind of family tree.
Again, I haven’t left a message here for a while, so, instead of a long text and explanations maybe just a few snaps of the final exhibition at the Department of Creative Arts, Unimaid.
Since, then I’m actually more around town, trying to talk to the guys in the numerous art shops around town. Just yesterday I was hinted at one by the former head of the arts department at the local college of education, and actually, finally, finally, a proper calligrapher. He appears to be all about town as well so its been a bit tricky to make an appointment with him but hopefully tomorrow morning …
In fact, let me also add one or two images of works by students of Kashim Ibrahim College of Education here in town. The only comment I want to make for the moment: when looking at them pls. bear in mind that many of them might not have had any art education before they joined the college, and I really mean none at all. Although theoretically art is compulsory subject in primary and junior secondary school many schools don’t teach it. Why? Well, lack of funding in the form of art rooms and art materials goes a long way to explain it. But there is also a lack of qualified teachers. And, understandably somehow, with the limited resources many headmasters seems to prefer to use the available funds towards technical and science education. So, as a matter of fact, many qualified art teachers seem to end up teaching other subjects or leaving the profession at all. A sentiment, by the way, many parents seem to share. So, yes, many of the students joining the college’s art department might not have had any art instructions at all … and of course, this might show in some of the works. Or, like a graduate of the Department of Creative Arts at the University of Maiduguri put it: With such a late start, how can (northern) Nigerian artists be expected to compete with Western artists who got their first art instructions in nursery, kindergarten or latest primary school?
Oh, and just to quickly contradict the impression that I’m pretty depressed here: I’m not. Most of the time I’m actually enjoying it (just think of all the delicious food around here … just say: suya!!!). And come on, does that look like I’m not enjoying myself here?
And some of the stuff that frustrates me I would actually find quite funny if it wasn’t me myself being involved in it. And wait until I’m back in good ol’ Europe because by that time I will think they’re funny and get onto your nerves with them!!! But more about this another time.
Since, then I’m actually more around town, trying to talk to the guys in the numerous art shops around town. Just yesterday I was hinted at one by the former head of the arts department at the local college of education, and actually, finally, finally, a proper calligrapher. He appears to be all about town as well so its been a bit tricky to make an appointment with him but hopefully tomorrow morning …
In fact, let me also add one or two images of works by students of Kashim Ibrahim College of Education here in town. The only comment I want to make for the moment: when looking at them pls. bear in mind that many of them might not have had any art education before they joined the college, and I really mean none at all. Although theoretically art is compulsory subject in primary and junior secondary school many schools don’t teach it. Why? Well, lack of funding in the form of art rooms and art materials goes a long way to explain it. But there is also a lack of qualified teachers. And, understandably somehow, with the limited resources many headmasters seems to prefer to use the available funds towards technical and science education. So, as a matter of fact, many qualified art teachers seem to end up teaching other subjects or leaving the profession at all. A sentiment, by the way, many parents seem to share. So, yes, many of the students joining the college’s art department might not have had any art instructions at all … and of course, this might show in some of the works. Or, like a graduate of the Department of Creative Arts at the University of Maiduguri put it: With such a late start, how can (northern) Nigerian artists be expected to compete with Western artists who got their first art instructions in nursery, kindergarten or latest primary school?
Oh, and just to quickly contradict the impression that I’m pretty depressed here: I’m not. Most of the time I’m actually enjoying it (just think of all the delicious food around here … just say: suya!!!). And come on, does that look like I’m not enjoying myself here?
And some of the stuff that frustrates me I would actually find quite funny if it wasn’t me myself being involved in it. And wait until I’m back in good ol’ Europe because by that time I will think they’re funny and get onto your nerves with them!!! But more about this another time.
All about Town this week!
Last Monday one of my informants, Abdullahi – I might have mentioned him before, took me around to introduce me to some other artists in town. This came quite handy, as with some of them I had tried to make contact before, others I hadn’t even know about before. But in any case, in the end this yielded some interesting information. Especially as one of them is actually a sculptor by profession and when he decided to stay in Maiduguri after his Youth Service Year in Borno State had to think about ways of practicing his craft that would be acceptable locally and also earn him a living. Now he’s doing some really nice iron works, stair cases but also mirror frames, chandeliers, chairs, tables etc. And, occasionally he’s doing one or the other figurine he sells down in the south – one of which I now call my own and its really beautiful. Maybe one of these days I’ll post a picture.
I have also finally been to the museum again, though they didn’t seem to remember me from my visit in early July last year. It was actually quite interesting because I went with Abdullahi and the owner of one of the art shops he took me to. Curious how differently we react to different things and how much they seem to have enjoyed the visit and place while I’m actually quite critical of the lack of labelling, the state in which some of the exhibits are etc. In any case, I will have to go back, even though I still don’t really know how to best fit it into the context of my research and all the ideas of how to organise I have in my head.
Next week will be a challenge as I will have to finally get started seriously with the crafts in the town – I should have started earlier but I will need a translator and feel a bit shy about this … I know its silly, especially that this has stopped me to look at a whole sector of things in town but … I’ve never been an employer before, not even on small-scale.
Oh, and on a private note for all those who are not on facebook: Last week was the best ever food-wise. There were guest in the house for dinner on Friday and Saturday – the latter being Sarah’s birthday dinner – and accordingly some delicious food was prepared. I had lots of salad, fried fish, fried chicken pieces, jollof rice and yam balls. And on Sunday I was invited for a cheese, olives and Lebanese bread breakfast and later pounded yam with groundnut sauce for lunch!!! And, I’m invited for more of the same coming Sunday, only at a price: I have to watch Champions League, Manchester United against Tottenham … and I really loathe football. Not good right now anyway, as everybody gets excited about the African cup of Nations. And, I really haven’t had cheese since I’m in the country so … what else could I do but go?
I have also finally been to the museum again, though they didn’t seem to remember me from my visit in early July last year. It was actually quite interesting because I went with Abdullahi and the owner of one of the art shops he took me to. Curious how differently we react to different things and how much they seem to have enjoyed the visit and place while I’m actually quite critical of the lack of labelling, the state in which some of the exhibits are etc. In any case, I will have to go back, even though I still don’t really know how to best fit it into the context of my research and all the ideas of how to organise I have in my head.
Next week will be a challenge as I will have to finally get started seriously with the crafts in the town – I should have started earlier but I will need a translator and feel a bit shy about this … I know its silly, especially that this has stopped me to look at a whole sector of things in town but … I’ve never been an employer before, not even on small-scale.
Oh, and on a private note for all those who are not on facebook: Last week was the best ever food-wise. There were guest in the house for dinner on Friday and Saturday – the latter being Sarah’s birthday dinner – and accordingly some delicious food was prepared. I had lots of salad, fried fish, fried chicken pieces, jollof rice and yam balls. And on Sunday I was invited for a cheese, olives and Lebanese bread breakfast and later pounded yam with groundnut sauce for lunch!!! And, I’m invited for more of the same coming Sunday, only at a price: I have to watch Champions League, Manchester United against Tottenham … and I really loathe football. Not good right now anyway, as everybody gets excited about the African cup of Nations. And, I really haven’t had cheese since I’m in the country so … what else could I do but go?
Presentation at the Borno Museum Society
Alright, finally some impressions on my first research paper presented in Nigeria, ever. Its now almost a week since the presentation but because it came about on such short notice I spent so much time last week preparing, i.e. in front of the computer, that I had a strong desire to stay away from it for a few days … alright, the whole truth is, in addition I did some typing for some friends and (host) family who had to hand in assignments and by Saturday I was so tired that I left half of my equipment at the internet place, in fact, a quite important part: the power cable. This is the second time I left something essential in that place and got it back – last time it was my purse – and I seriously start to wonder whether I do have a whole set of guardian angels, plural because there must be at least one fully occupied with looking after all the things I loose and forget all the time!
Anyway, getting back to the presentation: You probably haven’t heard of the Borno Museum Society yet but they do have regular lecturers and occasionally publish really interesting books with regard to regional history and culture. Last week it was my turn for the presentations. “Contemporary Arts in Northern Nigeria – Research Notes.” I had been told in advance that attendance to the lectures fluctuates a lot depending on the topic, speaker and time of the academic year but could be anything between 10 and 50 people. To be honest, after I heard the 50 I became very reluctant to hand out any of the invitation letters I was given. I mean, 50 people is quite a daunting number, isn’t it. Especially if you are not familiar with them and the ground rules of the lecture series. And even more so, if you are expected to talk about a department of this very same university at which you’re giving your talk. And even worse, if the head of this department is chairing the session. I was even more discouraged when I first entered the lecture hall, or rather the conference room of the Centre for Trans-Saharan Studies, and found that the whole arrangement was very formal, rather for 50 than for 10 people and no way to rearrange anything to make it feel a bit more intimate. However, in the end only about 15 people turned up, most of them about 15 to 30 minutes late.
So, I started my presentation about 20 minutes late and actually made my way through it without any major complications, in fact there were not even the usual complains that I was speaking to quickly! (Not sure whether I’ve really become slower as a result of the teacher training with the WEA last year or these people are just used to quick speakers.) However, the questions at the end were … how do I put it? Challenging?
Some of them were to be expected, for example, I was very well aware of the fact that I hadn’t yet paid sufficient attention to the crafts in the region. Others came a bit to my surprise but mainly because I never had thought about it - like the request to include primary and secondary schools into my research. This makes of course a lot of sense if you think that this is were art education starts and children are prepared or discouraged from taking the subject further. However, at the same time there are probably thousands of primary schools in the region of northern Nigeria and I can’t really think of how I could ever choose a representative sample. And, of course the question of religion or rather Islam and arts was raised.
This was to be expected as I am talking about and trying to conduct research into the arts in a dominantly Muslim part of the country. And, obviously, I am interested in any argumentations with regard to that relationship. But, it should be equally obvious that as non-Muslim and not even an expert in Islamic arts I’m less than qualified to have an own opinion with regard to what is permitted or not. ence, I’d really like to hear all the different arguments, those of artists and art teachers but also local Muslim scholars. (However, with regard to the latter I’m not quite sure how best to make the contact.) And, maybe, but only maybe, by the end of this year I will be able to have a more clear idea about the relationship between arts and Islam or rather how it is understood here in northern Nigeria. – And with regard to that, I will have to have a more detailed discussion with some of the members of the audience to better understand their view and the arguments it is based upon.
So, yes, at the end of the day it was a good and intellectually stimulating experience – and it surely helped to refocus me after the holiday break. However, I have just been asked to present another paper or even the same one in another context and I have to confess the little scare in my tummy is right back with me!
Anyway, getting back to the presentation: You probably haven’t heard of the Borno Museum Society yet but they do have regular lecturers and occasionally publish really interesting books with regard to regional history and culture. Last week it was my turn for the presentations. “Contemporary Arts in Northern Nigeria – Research Notes.” I had been told in advance that attendance to the lectures fluctuates a lot depending on the topic, speaker and time of the academic year but could be anything between 10 and 50 people. To be honest, after I heard the 50 I became very reluctant to hand out any of the invitation letters I was given. I mean, 50 people is quite a daunting number, isn’t it. Especially if you are not familiar with them and the ground rules of the lecture series. And even more so, if you are expected to talk about a department of this very same university at which you’re giving your talk. And even worse, if the head of this department is chairing the session. I was even more discouraged when I first entered the lecture hall, or rather the conference room of the Centre for Trans-Saharan Studies, and found that the whole arrangement was very formal, rather for 50 than for 10 people and no way to rearrange anything to make it feel a bit more intimate. However, in the end only about 15 people turned up, most of them about 15 to 30 minutes late.
So, I started my presentation about 20 minutes late and actually made my way through it without any major complications, in fact there were not even the usual complains that I was speaking to quickly! (Not sure whether I’ve really become slower as a result of the teacher training with the WEA last year or these people are just used to quick speakers.) However, the questions at the end were … how do I put it? Challenging?
Some of them were to be expected, for example, I was very well aware of the fact that I hadn’t yet paid sufficient attention to the crafts in the region. Others came a bit to my surprise but mainly because I never had thought about it - like the request to include primary and secondary schools into my research. This makes of course a lot of sense if you think that this is were art education starts and children are prepared or discouraged from taking the subject further. However, at the same time there are probably thousands of primary schools in the region of northern Nigeria and I can’t really think of how I could ever choose a representative sample. And, of course the question of religion or rather Islam and arts was raised.
This was to be expected as I am talking about and trying to conduct research into the arts in a dominantly Muslim part of the country. And, obviously, I am interested in any argumentations with regard to that relationship. But, it should be equally obvious that as non-Muslim and not even an expert in Islamic arts I’m less than qualified to have an own opinion with regard to what is permitted or not. ence, I’d really like to hear all the different arguments, those of artists and art teachers but also local Muslim scholars. (However, with regard to the latter I’m not quite sure how best to make the contact.) And, maybe, but only maybe, by the end of this year I will be able to have a more clear idea about the relationship between arts and Islam or rather how it is understood here in northern Nigeria. – And with regard to that, I will have to have a more detailed discussion with some of the members of the audience to better understand their view and the arguments it is based upon.
So, yes, at the end of the day it was a good and intellectually stimulating experience – and it surely helped to refocus me after the holiday break. However, I have just been asked to present another paper or even the same one in another context and I have to confess the little scare in my tummy is right back with me!
Presenting a paper?!
Today (04/01/08) around 1 pm I received a message from Gisela Seidenstricker-Brikay, an expatriate researcher based at the University of Maiduguri, asking me whether I could possibly present a paper about my research, past or now, next Friday. My first reaction was: No way I’m not going to do that, I’m not feeling ready to present anything, last of all my undigested impressions of the Creative Arts Department at the University of Maiduguri to a room full of members of this same university!!! On second thought, I tried to see it as an opportunity to get feedback, hints and corrections on what I have been doing so far – and as a means to force me back into focus after the holiday period. Honestly, I’ve become lazy!!! But, in my defence: There were hardly any students or lecturers around, the owners of most of the art shops also travelled. And, hmmm, my mind was somewhere else … Fichtenwalde, Berlin, London, … and, last but not least, trying to figure out how to navigate local moral standards and still enjoy an occasional dinner at the local Lebanese restaurant. Not that I have to come to any conclusions in this regard. – Yes, forgive me: I love most of the local food and especially the women of my host family always rustle up some delicious food but once in a while I really feel like something different … and I don’t mind the company either. So, I thought, yes, let’s do it and hope the pressure will get me focused and organised again. But now, a few hours later I’m panicking at the very thought of it.
For once, I don’t really know what to present. I mean, yes, I’ve talked to students and some lecturers, attended performances, went to Kano for the British Council Course on Islamic Art, talked to the owners of some of the independent little art shops in town BUT I don’t think I have properly digested all this yet, I still haven’t managed to locate a proper documentation of the department’s history or any kind of archival material (it doesn’t really help that the current Head of Department only occupies his post for about two years and doesn’t really seem to take any interest in the department’s history or that I’ve not been able to win serious attention from his predecessor Dr. A.L. Satti, who has been at the department for a long time but appears to be constantly too busy to see me for more then a split-second), haven’t still met all the lecturers at the department (its been exam period so they were not required to be around) or with others I’m just not good enough to impose myself onto their time, there are still many areas in town where I haven’t checked for art shops, and I not been to the local museum. And those are only the faults and gaps I’m spontaneously aware of!!! Arrrrghhh, what have I done the last two months?!
A second reason I’m extremely nervous is that I don’t yet really know the context of this presentation. Yes, she wrote it would be informal and the audience would be made up of university folk but how informal is informal in the Nigerian academic context?
The third one is my not very good experience with such research colloquiums in the past. You ask for feedback but what you sometimes get is an all-round dismissal without any constructive criticism or someone getting hooked upon some minor detail and ignoring the wider context and all the questions you actually had to completely destruct all your self-esteem and belief in yourself and your work.
So, what have I got myself into?!
Unfortunately it’s too late and I need to send her the details and title sometime tomorrow. So all that is left is to panic!!! … … … And once, I’m trough with this, go to bed, hope for the good old wonder of sleeping it over and pray for a Geistesblitz!!! Wallahi!
For once, I don’t really know what to present. I mean, yes, I’ve talked to students and some lecturers, attended performances, went to Kano for the British Council Course on Islamic Art, talked to the owners of some of the independent little art shops in town BUT I don’t think I have properly digested all this yet, I still haven’t managed to locate a proper documentation of the department’s history or any kind of archival material (it doesn’t really help that the current Head of Department only occupies his post for about two years and doesn’t really seem to take any interest in the department’s history or that I’ve not been able to win serious attention from his predecessor Dr. A.L. Satti, who has been at the department for a long time but appears to be constantly too busy to see me for more then a split-second), haven’t still met all the lecturers at the department (its been exam period so they were not required to be around) or with others I’m just not good enough to impose myself onto their time, there are still many areas in town where I haven’t checked for art shops, and I not been to the local museum. And those are only the faults and gaps I’m spontaneously aware of!!! Arrrrghhh, what have I done the last two months?!
A second reason I’m extremely nervous is that I don’t yet really know the context of this presentation. Yes, she wrote it would be informal and the audience would be made up of university folk but how informal is informal in the Nigerian academic context?
The third one is my not very good experience with such research colloquiums in the past. You ask for feedback but what you sometimes get is an all-round dismissal without any constructive criticism or someone getting hooked upon some minor detail and ignoring the wider context and all the questions you actually had to completely destruct all your self-esteem and belief in yourself and your work.
So, what have I got myself into?!
Unfortunately it’s too late and I need to send her the details and title sometime tomorrow. So all that is left is to panic!!! … … … And once, I’m trough with this, go to bed, hope for the good old wonder of sleeping it over and pray for a Geistesblitz!!! Wallahi!
10 Finger Arts
The other day I finally received a painting, or rather two, I had commissioned some time early in November. I had met the guys from 10 Fingers Art Studio at the Borno Hotel Conference where they had a stall just next to Maiduguri’s Alhaji Mai Gana. I had particularly admired a picture of El-Kanemi, a reproduction of the most famous of all images of him, done in pyrotechnic on board. This was obviously impractical for me to buy so we discussed other possibilities. One idea was that they reproduce the image in oil on canvas for me in a radically smaller size. The other idea was that they paint me something that represents Adamawa culture or rather one of Adamawa’s cultures. This idea came out of the discussion in which both, Mustapha and Hassan, told me that they were actually based in Mubi, Adamwa state and that El-Kanemi had very little to do with their history. From my notes and memory we agreed they produce a cultural painting instead of the El-Kanemi one, after all the latter is a quite common image. And, I’m pretty sure I made that clear enough. However, yesterday Mustapha came around with two paintings, one of the El-Kanemi image and one of Wulma cultural dancers. He swore we agreed on two paintings. I don’t really want to accuse him of lying but I can’t help to suspect that he pretty well knows we agreed on one painting and just tried his luck. I mean, he wasn’t in the least surprised when I told him I remember to only have commissioned one painting and wasn’t the slightest bit willing to reduce the price for both together for me. And, I generally have the impression of he’s quite a clever businessman. For example he told me he would produce more cultural paintings for me and that this might just be the beginning of a good business relationship. And I would be very welcome to visit them in Mubi on my way to Yola – And I’m sure it will be very hard not to walk out there with another painting. In fact, the reason that I in the end bought both of them is the quite stark contrast between the two images. But have a look yourself:
I do seriously suspect that this has largely to do with the fact that the former is based upon an image, hence, the main composition and outlines are already provided, and has been reproduced by them at least one another time before, more likely several times.
Even more interestingly, Mustapha and his colleague Hassan have secured a contract with the Emir of Damaturu for a number of portrait paintings. While Mustapha was suggesting that he otherwise felt disrespected and mistreated by the organisers of the Borno State Hotel conference it is likely that this contact was made there.
I do seriously suspect that this has largely to do with the fact that the former is based upon an image, hence, the main composition and outlines are already provided, and has been reproduced by them at least one another time before, more likely several times.
Even more interestingly, Mustapha and his colleague Hassan have secured a contract with the Emir of Damaturu for a number of portrait paintings. While Mustapha was suggesting that he otherwise felt disrespected and mistreated by the organisers of the Borno State Hotel conference it is likely that this contact was made there.
Another Scare
23/12/07 Andrew told me to be careful if I go out in the evenings. Chenie (not sure about the spelling), the sister of his wife and about 22 or 23 years old, was almost kidnapped the other day. Apparently she jumped on an achaba at post office area, just the way you normally do it. Suddenly she passed out and the next time she remembers is how she got back to her senses and found herself being driven in a completely different direction, namely out of town towards the Army Barracks. She asked the driver where he was taking her and that this was not the right way at all, the just ignored her and kept on speeding. Only because she managed to scratch him, pull his hair and wrangle with him to the extent that they were almost about to fall over both of them, he stop and she got off the bike and onto another one home. Now, if that’s not scary. Especially as he also told me about some girls that have gone missing recently and that some have been found dead with parts of their body missing. And supposedly, I don’t really know how to interpret this, there are these guys around who just touch you and you’ll pass out … supposedly no drugs, no violence involved, or rather not at this point. Killing obviously involves violence. He referred to medicines and magic. And he’s a quite stout Christian and otherwise very … Just not the kind of person you could just say, well, he’s superstitious and doesn’t know better. Never quite sure what to make of those things; I have decided long time ago not to believe in any of these superstitions. But what other explanation is there. Volunteers please!!!
Hiking at Lake Alau
22/12/07 I’m still not in Christmas mood but feeling much less depressed after a nice outing to Lake Alau with Albert from Albito Arts. We left here about 8:30 or 9am and arrived at the dam about 40 mins later. And then we just walked and walked and walked along the shores of the lake until about 4pm. Now I’m dead tired but soooo happy. It felt so good to be out of the town, just me the lake and Albert’s company. A nice change after the Sallah chaos at Abakura’s house. Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoyed this and his mum and sisters are all lovely but 3 wives, 32 siblings plus other relatives and visitors and endless discussions about the different cultures, values and morals of north-eastern Nigeria and ‘the’ West – sorry, that’s simply who I am: I occasionally need a few minutes on my own during the day and if I don’t get them I find that really really exhausting. And Lake Alau and its serene, at times eerie beauty were a nice change for a day, fuel for the soul, rest for the mind and exercise for the body – I’m sure I’ll sleep like a baby tonight!
And before I forget to mention it: I was invited to the launch of the album of one of Lankester’s friends, Lankester being the owner of one of the art shops in town and an aspiring rapper/singer/musician. It was all quite different from what I had anticipated. Starting with the fact that I wasn’t only the only white person there – I kind of suspected this much – but until about 10mins before I left also the only girl. And this guy who, once they finally started, let through the show couldn’t stop making comments about the baturiya. And, of course, these comments were in Hausa. – What is it with people that they rather talk behind your back or discuss you in language they assume you don’t understand right under your nose rather then addressing you directly? I mean, the other day two chaps of about 12-15 years sitting right next to me in the taxi not only called me a whore but also concluded that I was about to drink oil because I dropped off in front of a petrol station. – Get a life! Or rather some manners!
Anyway, this CD launch party was supposed to start at 2pm and last till 7pm, so I felt safe to make an appointment for dinner with Nabil at 7.30pm. Well, at 5pm when I came there were just a handful of guys sitting around the pool chatting. At about 6pm somebody brought a generator, which duly went off in flames a few minutes later. About 6:30pm another gen was brought and somebody actually managed to get some light for the end of the pool that served as stage. At 6:50 Lankester (second left in below photo), who had invited me to see his performance, finally turned up. We just about managed to snap some pictures before I was told off for keeping these guys from performing and I left to meet up with Nabil. The funny and slightly disturbing things was, this guy addressed me as Abakura’s friend despite the fact that I personally can’t remember ever having seen him before! Back at the Lebanese restaurant, I suddenly hear ‘tsssssss Katrin’ and must find out that Lankester also does the DJ there, and even better he and Nabil are kind of buddies. What a village!?! And anyway, a weird experience after the day at Abakura's nice but stoutly Muslim family.
But now: Good night. Tomorrow morning I’ll have to try to finally get hold of Abdullah from the Islamic Art Gallery again. … Oh, and make up my mind whether to go to the official CD launch in the evening. Do you think it would be worth it?!
Holidays
21/12/07:
This has been a week of holidays and holidays there will be until next Thursday, first Sallah and now Christmas is about to come. Hence, the university is more or less closed though a number of final year students still work in their final projects and the required accompanying write-up. Anyway, I guess that’s not really what interests you right now, my research work I mean. Rather what I’m up to with regard to Christmas. Well, don’t you dare mention it!!! I absolutely hate that I won’t be able to spend this particular holiday with my family!!! And the worst: This town doesn’t even have those little phone boots I’ve seen in the thousands in Kano and Abuja where you pay the guy a certain amount of money and you can call abroad. Hence, the choice is between spending ridiculous amounts on calling abroad – and inland calls are already outrageously expensive, I mean, before you even realise it three or four pound of your pay-as-you-go credit are gone and you have barely managed to say “Hello!,” no, honestly I spend more on text messages and phone calls here then in London taking my mobile phone and the landline together!
Anyway, so the choice for Christmas Eve is between spending ridiculous amounts to call home from my mobile phone or not even talk to my parents at all on this most family-oriented of all holidays! Not happy. Will have to lock myself up in my room with a book and lot’s of tissue to dry my tears of loneliness! And the worst: Nobody here really understands this. My host family will be scattered between the homes of different relatives and friends for Christmas and Andrew considers this pretty normal. He takes care of them all year round so rather let them go to their grandparents, aunts, uncles and friends to collect their Christmas presents. And, also, he sees this as their chance to renew their relations with all those who at the end of the day will have to be there to assist them when he’s not around anymore. Well, different countries, different customs. Isn’t it? However, this doesn’t make me feel much better about not being with my parents and brother for Christmas. … And not getting my Christmas goose/duck and New Year’s carp.
Though talking about food: I visited Abakura’s place for the second day of the Sallah festivities and have to say: I loved this meat. I mean, the combination of cake, sweet drinks and enormous amounts of this deliciously fried meat in the virtual absence of vegetables is lethal – I was feeling so sick for the day as if I went out and got wasted the night before, which this having been a Muslim holiday I obviously didn’t – but its worth it!!! …
But unfortunately, that doesn’t change a thing about Christmas still coming up and me being here in Nigeria, all on my own – no, local friends who promised to pay me visits don’t count here, its family in the close sense of the word that matters!!! So, if you enjoy your Christmas meal together will all your loved ones, the very moment you feel like pushing a turkey leg all the way down the throat of granny to shut her up because she can’t stop nagging about the fact that at your age you’re still single or dad complains that your accountant boyfriend still hasn’t checked his tax bill or simply grandpa grumbles because the beer’s not cold enough - hold on for a second, think of me and be grateful to have these buggers around to spoil your Christmas! Andrew might be right that most of us complain about their relatives after Christmas but I still want mine to be around, even if they sometimes get on my nerves …
Anyway, so the choice for Christmas Eve is between spending ridiculous amounts to call home from my mobile phone or not even talk to my parents at all on this most family-oriented of all holidays! Not happy. Will have to lock myself up in my room with a book and lot’s of tissue to dry my tears of loneliness! And the worst: Nobody here really understands this. My host family will be scattered between the homes of different relatives and friends for Christmas and Andrew considers this pretty normal. He takes care of them all year round so rather let them go to their grandparents, aunts, uncles and friends to collect their Christmas presents. And, also, he sees this as their chance to renew their relations with all those who at the end of the day will have to be there to assist them when he’s not around anymore. Well, different countries, different customs. Isn’t it? However, this doesn’t make me feel much better about not being with my parents and brother for Christmas. … And not getting my Christmas goose/duck and New Year’s carp.
Though talking about food: I visited Abakura’s place for the second day of the Sallah festivities and have to say: I loved this meat. I mean, the combination of cake, sweet drinks and enormous amounts of this deliciously fried meat in the virtual absence of vegetables is lethal – I was feeling so sick for the day as if I went out and got wasted the night before, which this having been a Muslim holiday I obviously didn’t – but its worth it!!! …
But unfortunately, that doesn’t change a thing about Christmas still coming up and me being here in Nigeria, all on my own – no, local friends who promised to pay me visits don’t count here, its family in the close sense of the word that matters!!! So, if you enjoy your Christmas meal together will all your loved ones, the very moment you feel like pushing a turkey leg all the way down the throat of granny to shut her up because she can’t stop nagging about the fact that at your age you’re still single or dad complains that your accountant boyfriend still hasn’t checked his tax bill or simply grandpa grumbles because the beer’s not cold enough - hold on for a second, think of me and be grateful to have these buggers around to spoil your Christmas! Andrew might be right that most of us complain about their relatives after Christmas but I still want mine to be around, even if they sometimes get on my nerves …
The British Council Workshop in Kano
Finally back in Maidguri and my back pieces are still hurting from the journey – the upholstery in these minibuses should be classified as instruments of torture and banned under the convention of human right! Well, or at least for these long journeys: I arrived at the motor park at around 7:30 – 8 am, got almost immediately onto a car, secured a comparatively comfortable seat (or so I thought), after an hour long row between the drivers and some guys from the motor park as well as an almost fight in the bus we must finally have taken off around 9 am. I arrived - back, arse, and knees hurting – at Andrew’s house around 4:30pm. How I love travelling in Nigeria! But I think it was worth it, at least as far as the workshop is concerned.
The workshop – well, I might have mentioned in an earlier entry that the British Council, Kano, in association with the Prince of Wales School of Traditional Arts, London, organised a series of workshops for local craftspeople on the subject of Islamic art. Well, this was the third one and the one during which participants worked – and still do work, as I left early – on pieces for an exhibition that is to be held in Lagos in February. In contrast, the first workshop focused completely on familiarising participants with the tools and principles of geometric designs as they can be found in classic Islamic arts all over the Muslim world and beyond. On an earlier meeting with participants many told me that before the workshop they didn’t know how to use a compass at all, they can produce rather complex geometric designs accurately – and, in fact, Ibrahim has already taken up teaching those skill, the first student being me.
I originally thought it a curious set-up, the British Council getting Fosuwa Andoh and David Barnes, both artists based in the UK and in one way or the other associated with the Prince of Wales School of Traditional Arts, to teach Islamic designs to local craftspeople, the majority of whom are Muslims themselves. And, in fact, I still think it is curious. However, like usually things are more complicated then it initially appeared; the coming about of the course much more complex.
In fact, the real curious thing is not that the two of them in association with the British Council set up a course teaching skills to local craftsmen – for a moment leaving aside that these are of all things Islamic designs being of all people taught by Brits - but the response by students and staff of the Department of Art and Industrial Design at Kano State Polytechnic where this workshop took place. Time and time again the participants, in particular those working in the department’s pottery studio and just outside it, were surrounded by students from the department admiring their skills. Don’t get me wrong these guys know what they are doing but … I mean, these students come from an environment were decorated calabashes are available aplenty but watch Farouk work as if they never have seen anything alike before; these are students of a department where textile design and pottery are being taught as part of the curriculum but they are baffled by Sadik and Murtala’s work at the throwing wheel as well as Hannatu’s batik. In fact, one of the lecturers said it himself: There is something really sad and weird about Fossua and David having to come over to teach a local audience to appreciate their own artistic traditions! And here we are again at the point Abdullah of the Islamic Art Gallery in Maiduguri already raised: locally produced art works are, for one reason or the other, not really appreciated here, imported works preferred.
Oh, and just a last word, this is already a long entry again but I haven’t even mentioned what the participants think about the course: I am under the strong impression that they consider the instructions and workshops to benefit them. On the one hand, this is certainly a room for them to experiment and further develop their skills and, for sure, participating in the exhibition in Lagos can only be beneficial for their reputation and, hence, business. On the other hand, the designs that were suggested during the course seems to be very well taken on by their costumers, as least this is what Sadik (ceramics) suggested, and not for their association with Islam but as design innovations. Also, Salisu (leather work) explained, that customers appreciated the ability to correctly reproduce successful designs thanks to having learned to work with compass and ruler. And, this is not even taken in account that a crafts association has been formed through the workshops, CADDAK, that hopes to pass on their knowledge and raise the standing of local art traditions. And, hopefully, hopefully some of those art departments at institutions of higher education decide to invite them for workshops to pass on their skills but most importantly enthusiasm for what they are doing.
So, yes, in a nutshell: Although I haven’t yet quite digested last week’s new information I do think it was worth going to Kano even though on a private level … well, let’s not get there and spoil it all by complaining about the attitude of some male lodgers at the Tourist Camp towards women from the West, or rather me in particular. Guys, just because in Friends and similar TV programmes everybody hooks up with everybody else doesn’t mean that just because I’m white I just can’t wait to get to sleep with you!!! In fact, that is a rather gruesome idea … brrrrhhhhh. And even if my favours were up for sale (after all I’m officially engaged and looking to marry in a year’s time or so, hence, officially not available anyway), do you really think a falafel would be enough?! Come on that requires deep dark eyes, respect, a refreshing smile, respect, a good sense of humour, compatible values, strong dark hair, respect, creativity, the ability to intellectually challenge and entertain me, good manners, one of those voices that sound of deep oak woods, respect, no potbelly, the ability to listen (as in ‘zuhören’), a minimum amount of charm, respect, no arrogance and oga-behaviour, that good and safe feeling in your company … … … and last but not least, that certain sparkle … and respect. Which you certainly don’t have for me because otherwise … oh, and even sooo plumb! (And did I mention old? You should have known better! At least as far as manners are concerned!!!)
A lesson learned the hard, well disgusting way ...
Okay, that's more of the travel anecdote kind, but as Anne said this should become a book at one point I thought its worth noting that ... also as a slightly belated Halloweengruselstory ...
Just a warning: Loli, don't read this: there is repeated use of the C-Word!!!
Basically, the lesson learned is that insect repellent even generously applied to the whole body does not protect you from cockroaches ... well, this is of course only an issue of you are as stupid as me: Getting ready to go out to celebrate Malam Ibrahim's admission to Swansea uni I was thinking that this was an occasion for a bit of eye shadow and mascara and wondering whether the afternoon light outside wasn't more appropriate for its application then the stuffy room in which none of the lamps works for lack of power. Hence, I just dropped around the corner, took a seat on one somewhere on the floor and started to focus on my reflection in the mirror ... occasionally there was a moth flying by, or so I thought. Anyway ... actually, did you know that cockroaches can walk all over you without you even feeling them? Believe me, they can!!! Because, obviously, those moths were actually cockroaches, cockroaches looking for a warm place in my trousers, jumper and hair ... only noticed it because one fell of my jumber when I got up again. And suddenly I noticed them all over me!!! Must have been a nice sight, me dancing there in the backyard of the tourist camp somewhere between panic and, well, panic trying to get rid of them again, the little monsters being thrown all over the place ... and again and again discovering another one!!! Honestly, I had to give Malam Ibrahim a ring, make a new, later time and have a shower!!! Oh, and I haven't worn the jumper since ... I'm quite paranoid now.
Now, can somebody pls. tell me, what cockroaches are if not insects?! Or for what other reason my insect repellent - good old agressive Autan - didn't keep them of!!! Especially when you're in public in an Islamic country and can't easily rip off your cloths outside your room but don't want to carry the beasts into your room .... grrrhhhh. I start to itch all over just remembering and writing this down!
Shike nan!!! I have to get back to my homeworks, or rather: I entered into a competition with Mr. Showoff, Nasiru Wada, about who can produce the better geometric design? Ocassion was his claim he could easily do what the participants of this course I'm attending are doing now that he's seen them doing in, in particular the beautiful batique Hannatu produced. Well, obviously I have great doubts about this ... but let me get back to this
Just a warning: Loli, don't read this: there is repeated use of the C-Word!!!
Basically, the lesson learned is that insect repellent even generously applied to the whole body does not protect you from cockroaches ... well, this is of course only an issue of you are as stupid as me: Getting ready to go out to celebrate Malam Ibrahim's admission to Swansea uni I was thinking that this was an occasion for a bit of eye shadow and mascara and wondering whether the afternoon light outside wasn't more appropriate for its application then the stuffy room in which none of the lamps works for lack of power. Hence, I just dropped around the corner, took a seat on one somewhere on the floor and started to focus on my reflection in the mirror ... occasionally there was a moth flying by, or so I thought. Anyway ... actually, did you know that cockroaches can walk all over you without you even feeling them? Believe me, they can!!! Because, obviously, those moths were actually cockroaches, cockroaches looking for a warm place in my trousers, jumper and hair ... only noticed it because one fell of my jumber when I got up again. And suddenly I noticed them all over me!!! Must have been a nice sight, me dancing there in the backyard of the tourist camp somewhere between panic and, well, panic trying to get rid of them again, the little monsters being thrown all over the place ... and again and again discovering another one!!! Honestly, I had to give Malam Ibrahim a ring, make a new, later time and have a shower!!! Oh, and I haven't worn the jumper since ... I'm quite paranoid now.
Now, can somebody pls. tell me, what cockroaches are if not insects?! Or for what other reason my insect repellent - good old agressive Autan - didn't keep them of!!! Especially when you're in public in an Islamic country and can't easily rip off your cloths outside your room but don't want to carry the beasts into your room .... grrrhhhh. I start to itch all over just remembering and writing this down!
Shike nan!!! I have to get back to my homeworks, or rather: I entered into a competition with Mr. Showoff, Nasiru Wada, about who can produce the better geometric design? Ocassion was his claim he could easily do what the participants of this course I'm attending are doing now that he's seen them doing in, in particular the beautiful batique Hannatu produced. Well, obviously I have great doubts about this ... but let me get back to this